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Konstantinos Hristeas, known as Gus, tends the bar at Barbetta, the oldest surviving establishment on Restaurant Row along West 46th in Manhattan, Jan. 27, 2018. Gus has been at this theater district landmark for 38 years, or maybe 42. âYou donât pay attention, time goes by,â he said. (Dina Litovsky/The New York Times)

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